First Ascent on Uzum Brakk (6422 m), Karakoram
On Thursday August 8th 2013, Ondra Mandula and Jirka Pliska managed to climb so far unclimbed summit of the mountain Uzum Brakk (6422 m) in Pakistani mountain range Karakoram, which has so far resisted all climbing attempts.
The ascent took three days (plus one day of rappeling to the glacier) and led over 1600 m high West pillar. Jirka Pliska said: “We almost managed to free climb the entire route, where purely rock and ice segments alternate, only 10 m we did aid climbing A1, therefore the second climber enjoyed a nice ascent and not just a climb on hand ascenders. We had perfect conditions on the wall and we were also lucky to enjoy good weather. So we could complete our line with the working title "At the Right Time in the Right Place" (August 6th to 9th 2013, 1600 m, 400 m solo + 35 pitches, 6b, 70 °, M5, A1)
SINGING ROCK supported this successful expedition with our gear and we congratulate Jirka and Ondra for this great achievement.
Más
